Tags: alaska, anchorage, daily photo, kincaid park, natural light, photo class, portraiture
Photo class session, learning about shooting portraits in natural light.
Tags: anchorage, daily photo, snow storage, spring
Tags: daily photo, ribbon cloud, road trip, seward highway, turnagain arm, weird cloud
Tags: restaurant names, seward highway, turnagain arm, turnagain arm pit
This place is about to awake from a long winter’s nap. Have never been here but heard it’s pretty good. The name is unfortunate [Turnagain Arm is the name of the body of water south of Anchorage]. These guys also have a Midtown Anchorage location that’s open year round.
Tags: anchorage, daily photo, homeless, midtown, street scenes
Tags: 4th ave theater, development, empress theater, history, lathrop, old anchorage
A week ago I walked by the old Empress Theater building on 4th Ave. to see if it had been torn down yet. It had. The building was removed to make way for a mid-rise tower that will adjoin and convene the existing Anchorage State Legislature office building.
I worked in Mark Pfeffer and his partners’ architectural firm from 1994 through 2000. Lots of interesting memories. Man, can that guy cut a deal, or what? Yes, he can — on better terms than absolutely anybody.
That aspect isn’t surprising — but I didn’t think he would tear down the building. In the early 2000s the Ginza Restaurant occupied the old theater building. Once after work I went there with Pfeffer and some others from the office — and Mark asked to see a set of 8×10 photos taken in the early years of the Empress — showing the interior, balcony, uniformed ushers and the proscenium. They were in a manila envelope at the bar. [Perhaps the photos were some others by P.S. Hunt, prolific photographer of Valdez, early Anchorage and the Alaska Railroad.] Mark showed them to me, knowing I would be interested. I was, very much!
I know that Pfeffer also was a supporter of Anchorage Historic Properties, Inc., an agency that managed some of Anchorage’s extant historic homes and commercial structures and made recommendations on ways to preserve others. I can’t find any trace of that organization today, though — was AHPI absorbed into the MOA Planning Dept. in 2007? The MOA doesn’t have much to say about historic preservation on their web site. One can find the 1986 MOA Preservation Program document there, and not much else.
At this writing the Empress is still listed on Anchorage Convention and Visitors Bureau’s ‘A Quick Tour of Anchorage’ [10 highlights in the downtown area]:
6. Anchor Pub/Empress Theater: Before Cap Lathrop crowned his career with the grand 4th Avenue Theatre, he constructed a chain of theaters in Cordova, Fairbanks and Anchorage, each named the “Empress.” Visit the Anchor Pub today on Fourth Avenue, and you can still see the balcony and the slight slope of the floor.
[The structure that housed the Empress in Fairbanks still exists and it's integrated into the Downtown Co-op, a mish-mash of small, marginal stores and offices and a lunch counter diner.]
I was really surprised when I realized sometime in the ’90s that the Empress building in Anchorage was still there. The thorough remodel of the 4th Ave. facade hid it pretty well, but it revealed itself when viewed from the alley. The 60′-6″ wide 1917 Alaska Building on the corner of 4th and G and the 39′-6″ wide Empress occupied the first two 50 ft wide x 140 ft deep lots on the block. Anchorage’s downtown is a rigid grid of 300 ft square blocks with 60 ft wide street right of ways between. Twelve 50 x 140 lots per block with a 20 ft wide alley between. For the first few years all of the commercial buildings were on 4th Ave. and the other blocks north and south were scattered with small, mostly wood framed houses.
The Empress, built out of concrete in 1916 was a rarity. It is mind blowing to think of a smattering of citizens watching silent movies in there when everything south of 9th Ave. was wilderness. It must have been a nice luxury in the tiny town!
I was also surprised to learn that it continued in use as a movie theater for years after Lathrop opened the 4th Ave. Theater on the next block to the east in 1947. [The 4th Ave. is now on hard times, boarded up and looking very marginal -- the last time I went by it looked like the heat wasn't on... if so, can soon add six kinds of mold to the building's woes. Quite a comedown for what used to be the fanciest place in Alaska -- but at least it is still intact, for now.]
In the ’60s the Empress was thoroughly remodeled and became a branch bank. It was still used as a bank and adjoined to the new six story tower next door in the ’70s and ’80s. Sometime in the ’90s the connecting door was sealed up and the old theater became a series of different restaurants and cocktail lounges. Through it all, the old theater was still visible — the wall pilasters, balcony platform [without the slope, risers and seats but with the stairs still in the same place] and 19 ft high former auditorium space attesting to its former life.
The theaters were the brainchild of Captain Austin E. ‘Cap’ Lathrop, a magnate of old Valdez and old Anchorage. They were a way to give back to the state and its people, in recognition of a long and successful career in mining and development — back when magnates felt obligated toward such grand gestures [hint, hint, Mark!]. Lathrop’s been dead since 1950 but still occasionally writes on his Facebook page, when he isn’t haunting his buildings.
Update 1/5/14: A structural engineer friend informs me the Empress’s east wall was left in place because part of the structure of the Alaska Bldg. next door is hung from it. They don’t build ‘em like they used to, eh?
Another downtown building Mark Pfeffer tore down this year — now vacant property. In the view above it is about halfway between its transition from a respectable establishment and good example of the second era of Anchorage’s history to the fleabag den of iniquity and suffering it became at the end. In the ’90s the original wood double hung windows were removed and the original concrete wall detailing covered with vinyl siding.
It continues to amaze me that Anchorage takes such a cavalier, disaffected stance on preserving traces of what happened here. We continue to push the boundary, rolling our low scale sprawl across the whole Anchorage bowl and up into the foothills. And complain that we’re out of space, while we obliterate the old settlement pattern and turn what used to be residential blocks and boreal forest into acres of surface parking. I can’t blame individual developers so much — it is a defect in our collective thought on the best way to accommodate population growth.
Tags: alaska, anchorage, bike commuting, winter biking
Contrary to what many would expect, Anchorage is really the ideal place to bike in Winter. The climate is favorable – not too cold to be comfortable [as you'd find in Fairbanks] most of the time; not so warm that it starts to get messy out there — and most of the time not prone to extreme winds or other hazards. Extreme precipitation tends to come and go in spurts. Many days I’ve watched blizzards out the office windows in the afternoon, only for the skies to clear by 4:30 for the ride home.
Going to concentrate on commuting to work, on a bike with two inch wide tires [maybe a mountain bike, or a simpler non-suspension bike]. My favorite bike for commuting has no suspension, 29 inch wheels and gears in the back only with a single cog at the crankcase. The 29 inch wheels means it’s more effort to get it up to cruising speed [up on step, as the power boaters say] but once you are there it just flies along!
This is my own set of ideas, mostly self-taught and each person’s approach is different.
If you’re doing recreational riding instead, somewhat different considerations apply. You will want better clothing since you’ll be out there for longer periods of time. You’ll want a way to carry water and snack food and extra socks and so forth. I like bags that fit on the bike in some way, rather than wearing a backpack. The pack tends to feel binding and burdensome. The disadvantage of bike-mounted bags is depending on specific configuration/location they can impede clearance, and they tend to get dirty over time so it’s just one more thing to clean and maintain.
Since Anchorage is so compact, most work commutes are five miles or less, or 10 to 15 at most [though longer are possible, if you're coming in from the far reaches of Hillside, or Eagle River].
I think the only way to ride recreationally here these days is on a fat tired bike, and I would give preference to the locally designed two options, the 907 and Fatback. But not everybody has that kind of money to spend on a bike, or can justify it for the amount of recreational winter biking they plan on doing. If you weigh less than 165 pounds you can usually do just fine out in the woods on two inch studded tires if you stay on the hard packed center line of the trail. I am about 210 now, should weigh 180 and will probably never be 165 again, so the fat tired option is best. The fat tired bike plows through sketchy conditions and less densely packed trails that would bog down two inch tires. Suspension isn’t needed because it’s provided by the low pressure balloon tires.
Back to commuting. Let’s break this down into a few important topics, and then wrap it up.
STUDDED TIRES. There’s a lot of choices and price levels. Studded tires used to be just for two inch wides, but lately they are available for skinnier tired road bikes and fat bikes too. I think it’s good to spend extra money on tires and economize on other aspects. Get the best ones you can. The ones made by Nokian are good — made in Finland [Helsinki is the same latitude as Anchorage, with similar winter weather]. Something about the rubber they use being more pliable in colder temperatures and thus less prone to cracking of the tread and loss of studs.
On some bikes only certain tires will fit due to clearances to the suspension parts and frame. On my mountain bike, the top of the line tire fit on the front but I had to get a lesser one on the rear since the better one wouldn’t fit. If you have non-matching tires you always want the better one on the front. I would buy the tires from The Bicycle Shop, even if they are a little more expensive than REI or someplace else, for the expert advice and installation. The more expensive ones have a greater number of studs, and the stud pattern covers a greater width of the tire, the outer ones angled out to give you extra grip on slopes and when cornering.
Don’t put the studs on too soon, Wait until the snow on the ground is definitely sticking, since the studs are annoying on dry pavement. You will learn to ride on the part of the road/sidewalk without exposed asphalt/concrete when available.
CLOTHING. Most people have one outfit they wear for the ride, and do a complete change once they arrive at work. I do not like to do this, so I have a different approach where I just remove the outer layer when I get there. I don’t like to have to carry anything extra, or allot the extra time required to change. I like to leave home as late as possible to arrive on time [more or less]. I wear the same outfit for 35 degrees down to minus 15. On the bottom, a pair of long johns, knit boxers and jeans. Heavy wool socks and a good pair of leather shoes nice enough for the office [I don't use biking shoes and toe clips; most people do and I probably should too but never warmed up to them so my bikes have regular pedals but they are the heavy duty metal ones with tines that keep a good grip on the shoe treads]. And 1″ wide yellow reflective velcro bands to keep pants from getting caught in the chain.
On top, a light short sleeved shirt, the type that wicks sweat; then a fleece pullover that zips down so it is almost like a turtleneck when zipped all the way up. Topped off with a coat that has a hard shell and a fleece liner. Coat should be loose fitting enough that it doesn’t impede free movement; have enough pockets to stash stuff including your headlamp battery [the main pockets being large enough, and extra pockets [on the sleeve and inside] are a good bonus]. Pay special attention to fit on the sleeves, should be appropriate for arm length when you stretch arms out all the way, and the sleeves should be a snug fit to wrists but probably not with an elastic band. Consider the materials the pockets are made out of, too. Sometimes the pockets are a mesh material that isn’t very durable [keys and other sharp objects poke holes in it easily]. Rather than something you’d buy to run in, insulating qualities and durability will trump light weight.
When it’s less than 25 or so I add a scarf that I can wrap around my neck and tuck in between the coat and fleece — a solid warm one, not something knit.
On the head, a balaclava [even a light, simple one works wonders] that covers the whole head and neck except for a small square of the cheeks, nose and mouth and eyes. If it’s warmer than 25, can wear the balaclava like a hat, folding the lower part up under the helmet. I have glasses these days, so they help cut the wind and protect from wind driven grit. Some people go a lot further [an enhanced balaclava with a filtered, louvered breathing cover over the nose and mouth; goggles or even large goggles that fit over glasses; snowboard helmets -- but since my commute is 4.4 miles I find that other stuff unnecessary, and if it's a colder day and my face starts to freeze I can just slow down a little bit and/or modify my route so I'm out of the wind more.
For gloves, I use glove liners and then heavy mittens [with a 'shell' outer surface] over the top. The glove liners are useful because if you have to take off the outer mittens you still have something other than bare hands. The mittens are long and fit over the coat sleeve ends to close off any air gap.
I always wear a helmet — just too risky not to.
Whether the clothing is adequate for cold protection or not can be tough to judge. When starting off on a day that less than 10 above, it can seem really daunting for the first mile or so — you start seriously questioning your judgment and sanity, to be out in this F-ing cold!! Then you get warmed up and it’s pretty much no problem after that. Part of it is establishing a pace where you are at an elevated level of exertion, but something you can maintain for the whole distance — but a lot of it is just willfully suspending your disbelief at the beginning. If you ride much the same route each day you will start to realize the place where you should be warmed up. After you arrive, whether you change clothes or not, you will have an adjustment period being in a heated building again after being outside for a half hour or more. Since I don’t change clothes, I’m often sweaty and uncomfortably hot at first, but typically this passes quickly and I’m back to normal in 10 mins. or so.
I don’t like riding in rain so much. I would not tend to start out from home in the morning under any more than trace amounts of rain. But I don’t get hung up on weather forecasts too much, because they are often wrong in their predictions — and because, if I get really wet on the way to work it is a problem, but on the way home it doesn’t matter, because I just strip when I get there and get into dry clothes. If I lived someplace where it rains a lot, I would figure out how to deal with it better. I do have rain pants [also used for hiking] that I can wear over jeans when needed, but I’d rather not.
LIGHTS. Another area where if you can spend a little more you get a lot better safety and utility. I really wanted the $500 model but settled on one that cost $270 but was still considerably brighter [and better battery life] than the $100 model. Compare lumens, battery life on a single charge and price. [It's a lot of money to spend, but if you start biking to work frequently rather than driving, doesn't take long to make up for the cost by not buying so much gas.] The batteries recharge but eventually need to be replaced [but that likely won't be for a few years]. One helmet-mounted headlight and one blinky taillight mounted to the seat post is what I use, and seems like the best solution. The helmet light can be easily adjusted on the fly, and you’ll want to keep the beam centered on a point about 20 feet ahead or a little less when your head is oriented in a normal upright position. Remember you can turn the light off and on along the way, depending on need or desire to be seen in order to conserve battery life.
RIDING IN TRAFFIC. This aspect is the one people find the most frightening, and rightly so. Your commute will inevitably involve some amount of riding in the streets. Certain roads accommodate it better than others. Intersections are the biggest problem. I like to try to make my intentions clear and make eye contact with the drivers who could possibly hit me. You will encounter some real assholes, who tell you to get the hell out of the road or something meaner, but you just have to remember you have a legal right to be there [unless it's a limited access road like parts of A and C Streets or the New Seward Hwy. that are specifically posted that bicycles are prohibited] and let the criticism roll off your back. You’ll get increasingly confident over time, but the key is to remain defensive and humble.
WINTER RIDING STYLE AND TECHNIQUE. Best advice is to take things really slow in the beginning and speed up as you gain confidence. The studs will grip like anything, and you can ride over sheer ice, even a sloped surface of it without risk of the bike slipping out from under you. You should, however try to keep the bike more upright during turns and cornering, compared to leaning into it like you do in Summer. Shift legs and arms to the side opposite the turn, in order to keep the bike oriented closer to vertical.
STORING THE BIKE AT HOME AND WORK. At our office we have hooks sort of like these [but even simpler and cheaper] to hang bikes on the wall. With the front end up, then the handlebar grips can hold helmets and outerwear clothing. Some wall protection is a good idea, and we have plastic oil pans underneath them so the runoff from the bikes won’t ruin the flooring. At home my commute bike sits in a corner of the living room by the front door on a 20×72 runner rug with a rubberized surface and that keeps the water and mud off the floor fairly well. You do not want to leave the bike outside at either place, mostly because it could get stolen — but also because the cold weather can make the brake and shifter cables gum up in their housings and other aspects of the bike won’t work well after prolonged exposure.
CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE. If I am riding every day I usually completely clean up the bike on a weekly basis, and oil the chain twice a week. I flip it upside down and wipe down all the surfaces with glass cleaner and paper towels. [Then flip it up and clean from the top. Most of the dirt will be on the underside.] You can clean most of the wheel surface and the tire sidewalls by holding the moistened paper towel next to the wheel and spinning the wheel while the bike is upside down. Then go around and get the wheels between the spokes… and the spokes and the hub, the deraileurs, everything else.
There’s special solvents for cleaning chains and cogs if you want to go that far. I don’t bother and instead just replace the chain and cogs every three years or so if the bike is frequently used in Winter. Use a good chain oil like T-9, sparingly.
Visually inspect your tires frequently — often you can discover a piece of embedded glass and remove it before it punches a hole in your tube. Get a compressor at home so you can easily inflate your tires properly.
WAYFINDING. This is an incredibly important subject. You will find most commutes involve some combination of the following: sidewalks [even though they're supposed to be only for pedestrians]; side roads in the roadway; alongside main arterial roads at the edge of the outside lane or just outside of the lane; through parking lots; on dedicated bike paths and/or lanes. No one single way will get you wall the way from point A to B.
You’ll find there are many more ways than you thought, and advantages and disadvantages to each variation. My commute is from Mt. View to Midtown. In Summer I might ride the Chester Creek bike trail most of the way, getting on via a spur that takes off north from near Fireweed and A St., and taking the trail as far as Tikishla Park at Sunrise Dr. and 20th, then north on Sunrise and Airport Heights and into Mt. View. But in the Winter I mostly stay off the trail because it’s slow going and sometimes it seems like it’s ten degrees colder in that valley than the higher ground on either side. So I try to head into the valley at some convenient spot and climb right back out again.
There are lots of sub-variations on the route, depending on how the Muni is choosing to plow or not plow sidewalks and trails along the way. For example, when the sidewalk is plowed the Glenn Hwy between Concrete and Karluk Streets is a good way to go — but at other times that sidewalk is used to stack snow plowed from the roadway and that route becomes tough to impossible — but the sidewalk and trail sections along Commercial and 3rd, two blocks north may have been well cleared all the way from Mt View into downtown.
The way is usually a little different than the fastest route by car. Let’s say you are trying to drive from E. 5th Ave. to Midtown — the best way would be via Gambell or C St. By bike, the best way is either Karluk [that's a wide but light traffic route all the way to 20th -- switching over to Juneau St. from 17th to 20th -- then you can dog-leg over to the sidewalk along Ingra/New Seward and ride up the hill to Northern Lights]; or Cordova St. that has a dedicated bike lane along most of its run from 2nd to 16th, with a thrilling hill at 15th and from 16th you can take a parking lot behind the stadiums and then ride 50 feet of the Chester Creek Trail and up onto the spur that takes you right back up to Fireweed and A St.
Riding Midtown is mostly an exercise in skirting the periphery of parking lots of big box stores and malls, and trying to minimize intersection dramas. When I approach from New Seward and Northern Lights I take the Sears Mall parking lot around the north side of the mall, cross Benson on the west side of Denali St. and then right into the Wal-Mart parking lot and over to A and 32nd. Then it’s just a short jaunt, one more easy parking lot and two more instersections to the office.
A good way to discover the routes and variations available is to go out on a few weekend days, when you don’t have to be there and scout it. Studying a map beforehand and/or along the way might help, but it won’t show all the ways that exist. You might find you can cut through a park, or there’s a connection between two streets you didn’t know existed. If the street you’re riding on seems too busy, look for another way nearby.
KEEPING IT FUN. Change the route a lot. Smile at people out there doing the same thing you are. Consider car traffic in a whole new light. Appreciate all the sights, sounds and smells and small changes in the weather and atmosphere. Revel in sunny days and favorable riding conditions. Relax when you get home and enjoy the post-workout glow. Don’t try to do too much [errands at lunchtime, stopping to shop on the way home, going out after work]. All the way to work and back three or four days a week will be enough [though I sometimes like, especially in Spring and Summer to sometimes ride around a bit at lunchtime, or take a longer than necessary way home].
Tags: arizona, AZ, R&R, recharge, travel, vacation
It was supposed to be a week in Mexico, but airfare from Anchorage was prohibitively expensive. So, Michele traded it for a week in Scottsdale, Arizona. I had never been to AZ at all, so it was a new experience.
The first place we went was Jerome. We headed north on Route 17, got stuck in standstill traffic a couple hours… finally got moving again. Turning west on Route 69, through more desert [and Prescott] and then climbed up through the trees to the mighty Mingus Mountain! Something like 200 turns in 12 miles. Here is Michele negotiating a blind curve in our rented VW Beetle.
Jerome is a funky little town that was a 19th century mining town, then later was nearly abandoned. Today it’s a mix of full time residents and accommodations for tourists [B&Bs, wine bars, shops and galleries]. Steep switchback streets and buildings clinging to steep rock cliffs. Totally charming.
We went back on our last day. Next trip, maybe we’ll just stay here [Scottsdale was nice, but it's a little rich for my blood].
A rock formation near Sedona.
One of the newer museums in the area is the MIM [Musical Instrument Museum] in Scottsdale. We were overwhelmed by it. Lots to see — too much, really. Built by the former CEO of Target, it is a first class facility. It’s organized by continents, and runs through a musical history of the world with displays and accompanying video clips. Here is a Hammond B-3 organ. You’ve heard this in a lot of popular songs, even if [like me] you didn’t know what it looks like.
Custom turntable and mixer from the Hip-Hop section of the MIM.
The beginning of a 90 minute tour of Taliesin West. This was my trip highlight. It was all I’d imagined and more. I really appreciated the perspective our tour guide gave to Frank Lloyd Wright’s life, work and character. All the anecdotes and stories — priceless! He was, and continues to be an outsider — designing against the current and the European tradition.
Most of Wright’s art collection isn’t on site anymore, but there is this dragon. I almost wanted to come back for the evening tour so I could see it spit flame! It was funny to think of the old man and some Hollywood actors hunkered down watching movies in one of the theaters there in the 1940s.
We went to the Heard Museum in downtown Phoenix. An amazing place. Loved how they have integrated modern galleries without changing the classic exterior. There was a whole world of native artifacts and some contemporary exhibits too. This shot is from an installation about Indian boarding schools, in all their ghastly horror!
The development pattern in the greater Phoenix west valley is kind of shocking — a low scale pattern of strip retail, large lot residential and high speed arterials spreads out for miles and is still under construction. But I noticed that in 50 to 75 ft deep buffer zones along the arterial roads there is still a functioning desert environment with all kinds of plant and animal life.
Michele at the Desert Botanical Garden. I like this photo for the atmosphere, even if it isn’t the greatest portrait and has a blown highlight.
There’s nothing like getting out of Alaska once in awhile! I always stop and marvel at large trees, because in Southcentral we really don’t have any.
Another highlight was Cosanti, the home of architect Paolo Soleri and the place where wind chime bells and other handcrafted art pieces are produced. This was really worth seeing! Next trip, I will go to Arcosanti!
My old co-worker, friend and real estate guru Peggy tipped me off about Cosanti. I had a nice lunch with her and caught up. And she gave us some great tips on restaurants. We had a grilled artichoke and I had a ‘Macho Salad’ at Bandera in Old Town Scottsdale. Man, was that good! Wow.
So long, AZ! I had a great time and will be back!
Tags: alaska, dream, random, what does it mean?
I became concerned when I got close. Something had gone wrong at our cute little split level while I was away for a few months. Maintenance was out the window. The yard was littered with junk cars. Windows were broken, doors displaced and hanging loosely, trash everywhere. Water trickled from a hole in the wall. Inside the place looked like it had been ransacked. Unattended children and others were milling about.
I found a woman who seemed to be my stepmother. She looked ashamed and began to explain. I said, ‘Wait! Hold that thought! I just need to go up to my room for a few minutes.’ In my 11×11 room in the back corner of the upper floor I found my friend Bruce sitting on a little cot in the corner. There was also a hastily and badly built large bed that filled up most of the rest of the room, with three sleeping positions in a row with light blue wool blankets with dirty white pillows. Boarders from Russia, to judge from the style of the blankets and the few personal items.
‘Bruce, I have to have my room back immediately. Isn’t there someplace else you and these guys can go?’
We walk downstairs to the basement. Only it isn’t the same basement. It is as big as a football field with a 24 foot high ceiling. On the far end there are some big gates and it appears to be open to a light filled valley beyond. There is nobody around but there is some earth moving equipment parked there, and some walls have been framed. We walk to a spot on the far wall. ‘The Russians could move down here,’ I suggest. ‘They could each have a suite as big as a house, instead of sharing my small room.’ Bruce looked at me with a frown, as if to say that isn’t going to happen and I can’t tell you why.
Such a strange atmosphere. It’s like the owners have become tenants. The house is part of a huge project, but the profits are going to an absentee slumlord who is letting the property become a rundown health hazard!
Awake and thinking about it for awhile, I decided the whole dream was a metaphor of Alaska.
Tags: daily photo, early spring, easter, homer